Niacinamide and Skincare

Niacinamide, or nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3, an essential micronutrient. Vitamin B3 is important for your body in general; its deficiency can cause a lot of health problems. 

Lately, niacinamide has been linked to skincare and skin health. We see a lot of different products that contain niacinamide, either as the main active ingredient or in combination. How effective are they? And what skin problems does niacinamide adress? Today, I'll share with you all about niacinamide, its benefits, combinations, and forms, based on research and science.

Niacin and Niacinamide 

If you are wondering whether niacinamide is the same as niacin, they aren't the same. Niacinamide and niacin are both forms of vitamin B3. Niacinamide can be synthesized from niacin. If you have an excess of niacin, your body uses that excess to synthesize niacinamide. 

Benefits of Niacinamide for the Skin

I can tell you from my personal experience that niacinamide is good, as I have used it in combination with salicylic acid, and during that period I felt improvement in my skin texture and my acne became less. But you are not here for anecdotal evidence, so, let's take a look at some of the scientifically proven benefits of niacinamide.

• Improving Skin Barrier Function: Applying niacinamide topically to your skin can stabilize the epidermal barrier function. This stabilization leads to a reduction in water loss and improves moisture¹. 

The skin barrier, as its name implies, is a protective shield. It protects your skin from free radicals, sun damage, UV rays, bacteria, and pollutants. The skin barrier also retains water and thus keeps your skin well moisturized².

• Increase in Protein Synthesis: Niacinamide can result in an increase in keratin synthesis (a type of protein) ¹. Keratin increases skin elasticity and hydration, and it also improves skin barrier integrity. 

• Stimulates Ceramide Production: Niacinamide can stimulate the production of Ceramide¹. This natural lipid forms up to 50% of your skin's composition. The function of ceramide involves keeping water in your skin and protecting it against bacteria. So, without ceramide, we can say that the integrity of the water permeability barrier wouldn't be the same³.

• Improves Wrinkles and Fine Lines: Niacinamide can also reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and improve the surface structure of your skin. This makes niacinamide a good choice for anti-aging skin products¹. 

• Inhibits Photocarcinogenesis: Niacinamide might have a protective effect against melanoma¹ (a type of skin cancer)⁴. 

• Anti-inflammatory Effect: It might also have an anti-inflammatory effect and reduce irritation in cases of acne, eczema, and rosacea¹.

• Reduction in Pore Size: This can rather be a secondary effect of using niacinamide. Keeping your skin moisturized can improve the appearance of pores over time 

• Regulates Oil Production: For those with oily skin, niacinamide can prevent your skin from going into overdrive, and thus it can lower the production of sebum⁵.

• Treatment of Hyperpigmentation: If you suffer from hyperpigmentation and dark spots, then niacinamide might help you. A study found that niacinamide can be effective in lightening dark spots and treating hyperpigmentation⁶. 

Niacinamide from Food

You can get your daily requirement of vitamin B3 from the following foods:

• Liver

• Chicken

• Turkey

• Ground beef

• Fish

• Brown Rice

• Avocados 

• Nutritional yeast

Niacinamide Forms

Niacinamide comes in many forms for various uses and different preferences. Here are some forms in which you can find niacinamide: 

1. Niacinamide Powder

You can find niacinamide in 100% pure powder form. The powder is not designed for direct use but for DIY projects. Meaning if you want to formulate your own skincare product with the concentration that suits you better and combine it with different ingredients, then you can use the powder.

However, this should be approached with care, as it needs some experience and knowledge. Also, the homemade product might have problems like instability and bacterial growth.

2. Niacinamide Cream

Niacinamide is also available as a cream with different concentrations (2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, and 10%).

You might not notice significant effects from using low concentrations, while concentrations higher than 7% might be irritating to some.

3. Niacinamide Serum

One of the most popular forms of niacinamide is niacinamide serum. This either comes alone or in combination with zinc or hyaluronic acid. 

Niacinamide serum also usually comes in concentrations between 5% and 10%.

4. Niacinamide Toner

Toners usually come in low concentrations (3%). The role of a toner is to reduce oil production and help you remove dirt and impurities.

5. Niacinamide supplements

You can also take niacinamide, or rather, niacin, as a supplement, but it's not guaranteed that it will give you the same effect as when you apply it topically.

Niacinamide Combinations

Niacinamide can be applied on its own, but it's often found in combination with other active ingredients. In fact, the most famous niacinamide products are in combination.

 

1. Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is a chemical peel that's used for acne and hyperpigmentation, and just like niacinamide, glycolic acid can also reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Combining those two ingredients is intended to maximize their effects, and you will find that many famous brands have this combination.

However, some argue that combining them might not really be that effective. You see, glycolic acid works best in an acidic PH, while niacinamide works best in a neutral PH. So, when you choose a certain PH for your formula, you will be minimizing the effect of one of the active ingredients⁷.

2. Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid

This is a favorable combination (one I'm planning to try myself). Hyaluronic acid has an incredibly hydrating effect on the skin; it's used as a moisturizing and anti-aging ingredient, as it also reduces fine lines and wrinkles⁸.

3. Niacinamide and Vitamin C

This combination is designed to reduce pigmentation and blemishes.

There has been controversy about combining those two ingredients together. In some research, when vitamin C and niacinamide were combined, the combination resulted in the formation of nicotinic acid, which can be irritating to your skin. 

But this combination was carried over by high heat, and that is what caused this result. 

According to Dr. Singh (a certified dermatologist) in an interview with Healthline, it's safe to use this combination⁹. At the same time, other experts say that it's best to just steer away from this combination. 

4. Niacinamide and Zinc

You probably heard of the famous combination of niacinamide 10% and zinc 1%. Zinc possesses some anti-inflammatory properties that make it a good agent for cystic acne or inflammatory acne. 

Moreover, because zinc can have a soothing effect on your skin, using it in combination with niacinamide is good for reducing the irritation that some people experience after using it. 

Combinations of niacinamide and zinc are considered safe.

5. Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid 

Those two complement each other perfectly. Salicylic acid is prescribed by many dermatologists to treat acne and reducing pore size. They work differently, but both of them can have a beneficial effect on your skin, especially if your skin is oily or acne-prone. Salicylic acid is a great ingredient to add to your acne-prone skincare routine.

This combination is generally considered safe. 

Takeaway 

Niacinamide offers a lot of health benefits for your skin; it increases moisture, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, protects against sunlight, UV rays, pollutants, and bacteria, and can also reduce hyperpigmentation and pore size. 

Niacinamide comes in different concentrations; each concentration is targeted for a specific problem and a specific type of skin.

Niacinamide can also be combined with other active ingredients to maximize its effect, such as glycolic acid, zinc, vitamin C, salicylic acid, and hyaluronic acid. While some of these combinations are considered safe and effective by the majority, there is a debate regarding some of them, like the combinations of glycolic acid and vitamin C. 

FAQ: Niacinamide and Skincare

What is niacinamide?

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3, an essential micronutrient important for overall health. It is commonly used in skincare products for its various skin benefits. 

Is niacinamide the same as niacin?

No, niacinamide and niacin are both forms of vitamin B3, but they are not the same. Your body can convert excess niacin into niacinamide.

What are the benefits of niacinamide for the skin?

Niacinamide offers several scientifically proven benefits for the skin:

• Improves Skin Barrier Function: Helps reduce water loss and improve moisture levels.

• Increases Protein Synthesis: Boosts keratin production, enhancing skin elasticity and hydration.

• Stimulates Ceramide Production: Enhances ceramide levels, which help preserve skin moisture and protect against bacteria.

• Reduces Wrinkles and Fine Lines: Improves skin surface structure and reduces signs of aging.

• Inhibits Photocarcinogenesis: May protect against melanoma (skin cancer).

• Anti-inflammatory Effect: Reduces irritation in conditions like acne, eczema, and rosacea.

• Reduces Pore Size: Helps improve the appearance of pores by keeping skin moisturized.

• Regulates Oil Production: Reduces excessive sebum production, beneficial for oily skin.

• Treats Hyperpigmentation: Effective in lightening dark spots and treating hyperpigmentation.  

Can I get niacinamide from food?

Yes, you can obtain vitamin B3 from foods such as liver, chicken, turkey, ground beef, fish, brown rice, avocados, and nutritional yeast.

What forms does niacinamide come in?

Niacinamide is available in various forms, including: 

Powder: For DIY skincare formulations.

Cream: Available in different concentrations (2% to 10%).

Serum: Often combined with other ingredients like zinc or hyaluronic acid, typically in 5% to 10% concentrations.

Toner: Usually in low concentrations (around 3%).

Supplements: Niacin or niacinamide supplements, though topical application is more effective for skincare.

Can niacinamide be combined with other skincare ingredients?

Yes, niacinamide is often combined with other active ingredients: 

Glycolic Acid: May not be effective due to differing optimal pH levels.

Hyaluronic Acid: A favorable combination for hydration and anti-aging.

 Vitamin C: Controversial; some experts advise caution, while others deem it safe. 

Zinc: Effective for inflammatory acne and reducing irritation.

Salicylic Acid: Complements niacinamide well for acne-prone and oily skin.

Sources and Citations 

1. Gehring W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x

2. Rosso, J. D., Zeichner, J., Alexis, A., Cohen, D., & Berson, D. (2016). Understanding the Epidermal Barrier in Healthy and Compromised Skin: Clinically Relevant Information for the Dermatology Practitioner: Proceedings of an Expert Panel Roundtable Meeting. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 9(4 Suppl 1), S2–S8. 

3. Coderch, L., López, O., de la Maza, A., & Parra, J. L. (2003). Ceramides and skin function. American journal of clinical dermatology, 4(2), 107–129. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304020-00004 

4. Scatozza, F., Moschella, F., D’Arcangelo, D. et al. Nicotinamide inhibits melanoma in vitro and in vivo. J Exp Clin Cancer Res 39, 211 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1186/s13046-020-01719-3  

5. Draelos, Z. D., Matsubara, A., & Smiles, K. (2006). The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of cosmetic and laser therapy: official publication of the European Society for Laser Dermatology, 8(2), 96–101. https://doi.org/10.1080/14764170600717704  

6. Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., Chhoa, M., Matsubara, A., Miyamoto, K., Greatens, A., Hillebrand, G. G., Bissett, D. L., & Boissy, R. E. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. The British journal of dermatology, 147(1), 20–31. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
   

7. Per Finholt, Takeru Higuchi, Rate Studies on the Hydrolysis of Niacinamide, Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Volume 51, Issue 7, 1962, Pages 655-661, ISSN 0022-3549, https://doi.org/10.1002/jps.2600510710

8. Juncan, A. M., Moisă, D. G., Santini, A., Morgovan, C., Rus, L. L., Vonica-Țincu, A. L., & Loghin, F. (2021). Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 26(15), 4429. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26154429 

9. https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skincare/niacinamide-and-vitamin-c